M5R2 Manual Transmission

Shifter Rebuild

*** Note some Part Numbers are no longer available.  For updated information see this thread: Updated Shifter Parts Info
 
Parts Needed:

2 sockets F5TZ-7228-A (plastic) 1 Torx 25 screw-driver
1 spring E8TZ-7Z120-A (3 prongs) 1 Phillips screw-driver
4 washers E8TZ-7E018-A (1 pack of 4) 1 Sharp knife
1 Boot E9SZ-7277-A Assorted small socket wrench set
1 White grease tube 1 Small file
1 Silicone glue or equal Cleaning solvent
Loctite 242 on the screws












Remove the console. The shifter knob unscrews counterclockwise, give it a hard good twist to start.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the upper and lower shift lever together.
Detach the 4 bolts holding the parking brake assembly to the floor.
Remove the soundproofing pad on top of the large dust boot. You may need to cut the soundproofing.
Remove the large metal boot that seals the floor.
You are now looking at the top of the shifter housing.
Clean the area with degreaser.
Loosen the 3 screws (Torx 25) on the shifter boot, but leave them in place.
Remove the 4 housing bolts holding the shifter to the trans.
Remove the shifter, clean out the housing and both mating surfaces.

You need a clean work bench now.

Remove the 3 screws (Torx 25) on the top of the shifter, pull the lever from the housing.
You will find that the spring, washers, and sockets on the lever are damaged.
You will reuse the thick metal plate under the old boot.
The plastic lower socket in the bottom of the housing can also be removed if it is still there.
The old washer under the lower plastic socket can stay in place, but clean with solvent.
Use your fingers and feel around the lower surfaces of the lever, any burrs or sharp edges need to be filed smooth. Do the same on the 2 alignment posts in the housing.
Take one of the new plastic sockets and place it flat on the bench (flat edge down), use your sharp knife to cut at the center of the cut-outs for the posts. You don't need to cut right through, once it is scribed, you can break it with your fingers.
Put white grease on both pieces and place into the bottom of the housing so the cuts you made will join under the posts.
Put white grease on the lever ball & posts and place into the housing.
Make sure the cut-out on the lever shaft (where the shifter arm bolts on) is on the right side of the housing (irregular shaped edge).
Put white grease on the plastic upper socket and place it onto the top of the lever ball, aligning with the posts.
Put white grease on the 4 washers and place them atop the upper plastic socket.

Put white grease on the spring, align 3 prongs with the notches on the edge of the upper socket and press firmly.
Use solvent to clean the top edge of the housing and apply a thin bead of silicone.
Clean the thick metal plate and place on top aligning the 3 screw holes.
Put white grease on the under side of the rubber on the new boot and align on top of the metal plate.
Put Loctite 242 on the 3 Torx screws and install them. Test the lever for smooth movement and fit.

Installation:

Clean and thinly coat of silicone on the mating surfaces of the shifter housing and Trans.
Looking inside the Trans, check to make sure it is clean and the Trans spring is in place, it should sit over a little round cup the accepts the small ball on the bottom of the shifter lever, it should sit about center of the cup.
This spring must move left as you carefully lower the small lever ball into the Trans cup.
Use Loctite 242 on the screws and install them. Test shifting gears to insure everything was done correctly.
If you knock the lever out of first gear, it should spring towards the right (passenger side). While you have everything open, grab the end of the Trans housing and try to move it from left to right and up and down.
If it moves easily, you may need to replace the Trans mount and/or the motor mounts to get smooth sure shifts.
Use your finger and put white grease on the driveshaft yoke (where it touches the rubber seal at the end of the Trans).
If you feel any burrs on the yoke, clean off the grease and use your file to remove the burr then re-grease it.
The parts are cheap, the job is done in less than 2 hours, and the shifter will work great! You should have 4" of throw front to back, and maybe about 1/8" in any direction when in gear. This is probably a dream come true if you are currently missing shifts.
Install the cover plate, soundproofing, handbrake, console, upper shift lever & shift knob.

David Suesz
Jerome Gipson